We were on “Pilgrim,” the 750m ice and mixed route running through the center of the Sheila Face on Aoraki/Mt Cook, a line first climbed in 2018 and one we approached with respect. In September 2022, the three of us, NZ Alpine Team members Sooji and Alastair, along with our friend Ruari, set out to attempt it in excellent ice conditions. “Pilgrim” lived up to its reputation, with steep ice climbing on the lower half, but also the seriousness that comes with its length and its susceptibility to rime fall later in the day.

At around 10 a.m., while we were trying to forge a new direct finish to the route, everything changed. A cascade of ice chunks broke loose above us and rained down the face. One large piece struck Sooji’s hand while she was belaying, instantly breaking bones. The situation shifted in seconds from steady progress to urgent decision-making.

Amid the shock and falling ice, we activated our ResQLink 400 Personal Locator Beacon, a small device that instantly relayed our distress signal to alpine SAR, transforming a chaotic moment into an organized rescue response. With the beacon transmitting, we descended three pitches by abseil to a safe area for extraction. Some hours later, guided by the signal from our PLB, Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Rescue Team member George Loomes was lowered by winch from the rescue helicopter and extracted Sooji safely to the village. Ruari and Alastair continued down the rest of the route to Empress Hut and skied out the next day.

Alpine climbing is dangerous, and there is always the chance for misadventure. Going mountaineering means embracing a certain amount of chaos, things can go wrong, and that reality is part of what makes the challenge real. We were humbled by this experience, and it was a powerful reminder of how much respect and humility we owe the mountain environment.

Stay safe out there.